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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred names. Yet, nestled near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Surprise Honour

This little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. This accolade has left the family utterly surprised.

“I am utterly astonished,” states the proprietor, referring to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their modest shop achieving such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its former character. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery definitely excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent texture.

It is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in less syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for under £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can start at many times that price.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate beyond its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this culinary achievement.